YOGA IN RISHIKESH
Author - Photography - © Shakti Hurst
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Rishikesh is a popular spiritual town on the bank of the upper Ganges River in Northern India. Located 24kms from Haridwar in the foothills of the lower Himalayas the town is considered a major pilgrimage site and starting point for the Char Dham Pilgrimage a pilgrimage made by devout Hindus to the holiest temples in the Himalayan area.
The beautiful green hills of the Shivalik range surrounds Rishikesh on three sides with the Ganges River (known in India as “the ganga’ or ‘Mother Ganga’) flowing through the centre.
As the Ganga is just leaving the mountains and beginning her journey through the plains the water is clean and clear and except for the Monsoon season it is usually a deep turquoise colour. Bathing in the river here is considered extremely holy to pilgrims as Hindu belief holds that bathing in the Ganga results in the cleansing of sins and helps lead to salvation.
Two suspension footbridges span the river Luxman Jhula and Ram Jhula, and the areas near both these bridges are filled with temples and ashrams. Along the banks of the holy river and in the many caves of the surrounding hills Sadhus, Baba’s (Holy men) and Yogis have practiced yoga and meditation for thousands of years.
The scenery, aesthetic architecture, peaceful atmosphere and positive energy of the Rishikesh are also an attraction for many foreigners. In the 60’s Rishikesh hit the world headlines when the four Beatles and their partners stayed at Maharishi’s Mahesh Yogis ashram. The fab four enjoyed the charm of the town while they learning meditation.
Rishikesh has now become more and more known to foreign travelers as ‘the place to do Yoga’.Traditionally yoga was taught in the many ashrams in Rishikesh and these days as well as the ashrams there are masses of yoga centres and schools offering classes in many styles and schools of yoga. There are a wide variety of classes available from beginner’s casual classes and courses to more advanced classes and teacher training. It seems everywhere you look in Rishikesh there is a sign for a yoga school or someone practicing yoga.
In the morning and late afternoon local “Baba’s (holy men) can be seen practicing yoga along the riverside.
These Baba’s are often friendly and open to foreigners interested in learning yoga and very happy to give a demonstration. There styles can sometimes be very unique such as one Baba from who likes to practice “Pani Yoga” (Water Yoga). Each afternoon he practices asana in the cold water of the Ganga somehow managing to stay afloat with very little movement for long periods of time.
Many foreign travelers also find the sandy beachside areas of the Ganga the perfect place to practice yoga as are the open air terraces and rooftops of the guesthouses as most have spacious areas with inspiring views. If a backpacker arrives in Rishikesh without a yoga mat they will usually have bought one before they leave as yoga and meditation seem to be the natural thing to do in Rishikesh. The cost of yoga classes around one hundred to one hundred and fifty rupees per class (approximately US$3) in India is low in comparison to fees in western countries and this is also a big attraction for foreigners.
Ashrams
Many yoga students are drawn to the established ashrams in the area. These ashrams are well known and offer solid spiritually based teachings and programmes. Often situated away from the busier areas or on the rivers edge the ashrams in the area provide an ambient atmosphere conducive to meditation and yoga practice.
Some of the popular ashrams are Parmath Niketan, Sivananda, and Phool Chatti Ashram.
Parmath Niketan Ashram is a large ashram set in peaceful gardens with ornate statues. Each day the ashram offers numerous classes ranging from hatha yoga to Yoga Nidra. There are also yoga and meditation intensives usually 1-2 weeks long and a 4 week yoga instructor’s course.
The ashram is also host to an annual week long yoga festival during which time teachers from around the world visit and teach. Short and long term accommodation is available and course and accommodation packages offered for around 500 rupees (US$12) per day. Each afternoon outside the ashram the ashram community and visiting pilgrims and tourists gather at the rivers edge for the evening Ganga aarti(light ceremony). The ceremony is filled with devotional chanting, prayer, ritual and a palpable sense of the divine. The combination of the flames from the burning oil lamps, the colorful clothing of the devotees and the golden rays of the setting sun across the water creates an extraordinary and beautiful scene. The aarti now attracts large crowds and many visitors are introduced to the ashram via the aarti ceremony.
Another well known ashram Sivananda Ashram is run by the Divine Life Society founded by Swami Sivananda Saraswati. Yoga classes are held daily on a donation basis. There is a popular women’s only class held every afternoon and the large yoga hall with windows overlooking the Ganga is usually full with participants. Long term stays at the ashram can be arranged but there is usually a waiting list.
Yoga students interested in doing a retreat in a very quite atmosphere often head to Phool Chatti Ashram. Located on the river five kms north of Rishikesh the ashram provides an idealic natural setting for a retreat. A seven day retreat/course includes Asana practice(Hatha and Ashtanga), Pranayama, Contemplative walks, Noble silence, Lecture and discussions, Yogic cleansing. The course, private rooms and food are all included for 3,500 rupees (US$88). Many participants in the course speak very positively about the course and positive energy of the ashram. Courses are run regularly between Feb to May and Sept to Dec and are limited to 20 participants each course.
Private classes
Beginner students, short term visitors or people looking for more flexibility in accommodation without the strict rules of ashrams have a range of options with a multitude of classes at various private schools and with private teachers. Many guesthouses have yoga classes connected to them and there are signs all over Rishikesh advertising private classes. Most of the private classes are casual drop in classes held daily. Most classes are 1 and a half hour to two hours and the usual cost is 100 rupees a class .Class sizes are small depending on the season but often there is more opportunity for individual attention.
Some of the recommended classes and teachers include an Iyengar class at the Green Hotel, the Sai School of Yoga, High Bank Peasants Cottage and Mukesh Yogi at Luxman Jhula
Yoga Spa
A more up market option for studying yoga in Rishikesh is Ananda In The Himalayas.
The prize winning luxury Spa Resort previously a palace and estate of the Maharaja of Tehri- Garwhal is located 18kms north of Rishikesh. The 21,000 square foot spa offers an extensive menu of over 79 body and beauty treatments, integrating the traditional Indian systems of Yoga and Ayurveda with the more contemporary western spa approach. Guests have a range of Hatha ,Kriya and Raja yoga programmes available to them.
Experienced and well qualified teachers give personal and group classes and individualized consultations. Yoga sessions are held in uniquely designed outdoor yoga pavilions and areas set in beautifully landscaped gardens with luscious plants, flowers, ponds and water features.
Best Times
The best times of the year to visit Rishikesh and the peak seasons for foreign tourists are between mid Feb to April and Mid Sept to Dec. The weather is pleasantly warm during these months. Outside of these times is less comfortable for Yoga as the winter months are quite chilly and the summer monsoon season can be unbearably hot and humid and everywhere becomes crowded with Indian tourists and pilgrims. In the summer months it is the dedicated students able to survive the heat that attend the smaller and quieter classes at this time.
Yoga students who often intend to visit to Rishikesh only for a short time commonly fall in love with this Holy Place and with the practice of Yoga. They find themselves having deep and life changing experiences making them stay for longer and longer periods. It is common to hear many visitors remark that this is not their first trip to Rishikesh It seems visiting Rishikesh has a profound effect on the Heart, Mind and Body. One visit is not enough and many people return each year to deepen their yoga practice.
Location and transport:
Rishikesh is approximately 6 hours from Delhi by car or taxi. The Shautabhi Express from Delhi train takes 4 and a half hours to nearby Haridwar. Buses run frequently between Delhi and Rishikesh taking 8 hours.
Contacts:
Parmath Niketan Ashram Tel (91) 135 244 0088 Website: www.parmath.com
Sivananda Ashram Tel (91)135 243 0040 Website www.sivanandaonline.com
Phool Chatti Ashram Tel (91) 135 244 0022 Websitewww.phoolchattiyoga.com
Sai School of Yoga Tel (91) 9837223268
Green Hotel Swargashram Tel (91) 135 243 1242
High Bank Peasants Cottage Tel (91) 135 243 1167
Mukesh Yogi Tel (91) 971937756
Ananda Spa Tel (91) 1378 227500 Website: www.anandaspa.com
